Joined in 2023 
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63 About this deal
The studs that the clips push on to are threaded and the purpose of the two holes in the clips are to be able to use a tool like needle-nosed pliers to be able to uncrew them if you ever need to take them off. Use a bit of ally sheet instead of a repair washer, the galvanic corrosion will take many car lifetimes to eat through 1mm of aluminium compared to the wafer thin heatshield. Make a couple of big square washers from a bean tin, folded a couple of times and a small hole made with a nail. Rum - Yes, the thin sheet of metal sandwiched between heat shield and clip over stud is what I will try.
Annoying because I could of left the car with them, now I will have to take it back again, that's assuming they will do it under warranty, if not I will fit a large washer and find a way to stop it cracking any further!
Flanged sleeve the bolt goes through, I just used a needle nose pliers and ripped the flange off to get it out of the heat shield. Enquired about goodwill as car is 3 months out of warranty and has only covered 12000 miles from new 3 years ago when we bought it.
Apply tiger seal to car body and exhaust shield, and push a ‘washer’ over the stud with a small amount of tiger seal.Someone said to me that the rear end of the heat shield isn't really necessary and can safely be removed. All the cars i’ve owned the heat shields have never used conventional nuts, they’ve always been some form of clip. lately when i accerlate my exhaust rattle but i dont see anything loose or anythng when i jack it up nothing looks loose. Recently I had the opportunity to easily get underneath my Note and noticed that some of the exhaust heat shield clips are missing from the rear section, presumably corroded and fallen off. All the "filler" that's supposed hold my shield in place just isn't there and it moves a LOT since really only one bolt is holding it.
The sleeve has 2 flanges that the heat shield sits between, problem is the material used to hold the heatshield in place warps away pretty quick and then your heat shield will start rattling around again. rgb251, 251, 253;">I managed to get it firmly back on, it will probably hold, without any more rattle. I did get rid of one loud rattle but now there's another that's more quiet than the heatshield that I fixed.Bolts that screw straight into the chassis are usually very large with very strong threads so you can apply adequate torque to undo a seized nut. but was cleaning under the hood a bit today and noticed that my shield is only holding onto 1 bolt while other isn't doing anything at all lol.
I removed the nut clip with my fingers, and added a large steel washer, before mounting the clip back on. with Takeda sri, Stillen front strut brace, 6k HIDs, black matrix depo tails, glossy black roof vinyl, LED drls. The only reason an exhaust centre will ever fix it back on is if it is easier than removing the remaining bolts.And over the next 20 – 30k miles or so before I sold the car on I had no problems whatsoever, even when the silencer corroded, holed and was leaking exhaust gas under the car. Mind you just making better fasteners would be an improvement- big issue I have with the Ford ones is that they’re so fragile, sockets have rarely worked, the flanges snap off as they’re just skinny folded steel. I looked up myself before posting a few listings and they too came up with VW transporter, Golf fitment. I've bought the smaller thicker ones recently but that was only to fit one in a position that VW did not find the need to, the springy/flexible larger ones I've used for years on my older cars, nowadays these are only used to secure heat shields, their use in lower temperature locations has now been stopped and plastic nuts have replaced them in newer cars. Only the US and central Europe get hot enough in standing traffic to ever come close to needing them.
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