Wonderland

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It is curious, then, that Leibovitz does not consider herself a fashion photographer. In fact, the 72-year-old says that for many years, she “didn’t take fashion seriously at all”.

I just love photography. I love how big it is and how broad it is, the way you can tell stories. I learnt very early on, at art school, that working with magazines in that world was going to be tough. But creating art to a deadline, doing something that matters, within the limits of a publication, is something that drives me.”Even after more than 50 years, and photoshoots with presidents, first ladies, the Dalai Lama and the Queen, Leibovitz admits to being nervous every time she takes aim. “Oh sure! Of course,” she says. “I’m always nervous.” But, she adds, “Isn’t that the fun of it? You admire and respect people, and when you work with them, that is daunting.” Leibovitz’s new book, Wonderland, would suggest otherwise. A smaller, slimmer volume than her other works (“I really did want something you could rest on your lap,” she says wryly), it is a celebration of her fashion photography Legendary photographer Annie Leibovitz’s surprising account of her encounters with fashion over five decades. This luxury edition is presented in a beautiful and elegant slipcase. Call to mind a seminal magazine photograph from the past 50 years and there’s a good chance Annie Leibovitz took it.

John Lennon, naked and wrapped around Yoko Ono, just hours before he was shot dead? Leibovitz. Demi Moore, seven months pregnant on the cover of Vanity Fair wearing nothing but a pair of earrings? Leibovitz. Whoopi Goldberg grinning like the cat who got the cream while bathing in milk? Leibovitz again. Melania Trump, pregnant in a gold bikini, standing on the steps of her husband’s Gulfstream, Caitlyn Jenner in a blush-coloured corset, revealing her true self for the first time on the cover of Vanity Fair, Kim Kardashian West and Kanye West, embracing on the occasion of their wedding… all Leibovitz. Whether she's photographing the famous and powerful - or simply the woman next door - Annie always captures something unexpected and deeply personal."– Oprah Winfrey Now, these images at the cornerstone of Leibovitz’ career are brought together in a new book by Phaidon (on sale now at Matchesfashion’s Carlos Place store and online). Titled Wonderland, the book invites us, like Alice, to go down the rabbit hole, suspending reality for a much more interesting adventure. A] gorgeous anthology of fashion images … Leibovitz is nothing less than America’s greatest living photographic portraitist … she has changed fashion photography forever.” – Anna WintourIn 2007 Ms Leibovitz became the first American to officially photograph Queen Elizabeth II and her family. Research is integral to this kind of assignment, she says. “I cannot afford to go into the shoot without a plan.” She views her subjects as creative partners and the final images as a reflection of that relationship. But they will always be a kind of fiction, she admits, despite the immediacy and realism of photography. It will never be possible to capture “the full complexity of a subject” in a single shot. “You can only get ten percent of a person in an image.” ■ Born in Waterbury, Connecticut, Leibovitz is the third of six children in a Jewish family. Her mother was a modern dance instructor, while her father was a lieutenant colonel in the United States Air Force. The family moved frequently with her father's duty assignments, and she took her first pictures when he was stationed in the Philippines. Anna Wintour, Vogue editor-in-chief since 1988, wrote the foreword, saying that “nothing is unphotographable for Annie; no request is too outlandish, too bizarre, too hard.” Annie Leibovitz. Wonderland’ is on view now through 23 December 2021 at Hauser & Wirth Southampton.

Legendary photographer Annie Leibovitz’s surprising account of her encounters with fashion over five decades

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Over the last 50 years, Annie Leibovitz’ eye has helped direct, guide and capture the fashion industry’s greatest talents; her hallmarks – theatrical staging, enchanting storytelling and a surrealist bent – working in creative dialogue with the designs they portray. Grace is very tough,” laughs Leibovitz. “Every time I would work with her, it’s like starting from scratch. Grace likes to remind me that I don’t do a lot on set.” Leibovitz is not simply among our foremost image-makers. She has essentially created a new form of portraiture for our time.' – Sherri Geldin, Director of the Wexner Center for the Arts