Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Warplock Bronze

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GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match ) It helps to paint your heads separately no matter what you do, but this is especially important for your skin, because you don’t want to get flesh tones on your nice finished armor color. For the flesh tones, I wanted something a bit greyer and more inhuman than your standard Cadian Fleshtone. I go into more detail in the HTPE: Human Skin article, but for Caracalla, the skin is VGA Dwarf Skin mixed with a mid/slightly dark grey. To highlight, I mixed in more of the dwarf skin, though the entire color range I used has a good proportion of grey in it. Instead of a flesh wash, I used diluted nuln oil to wash the skin.

Blood Games by Dan Abnett is a short story set within the Emperor’s Palace and what Custodes do when they’re not fighting. Final highlight the bottom-right of the jewel with an even smaller layer of Baharroth Blue mixed with White. Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference,

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coat d'arms match the OLD citadel colours so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, The next step is the real secret sauce. I created a reasonably dilute wash with a mix of Golden High Flow Acrylics Sepia (pretty much a more concentrated Agrax Earthshade), Golden High Flow Acrylics Dioxazine Purple, and the product formerly known as Future Floor Polish (Now Pledge Floor Care Finish, unless they’ve changed it again.) I wash the entire model in this color, removing excess where it pools too much. If you are working with Games Workshop paints, a mix of Druchii Violet, Agrax Earthshade and water/lahmian medium will work just fine. You will, however, be spending a lot more money to wash an entire army of Custodes using this method. At this point the gold is complete. It’s simple, but has a nice rich depth and purplish warmth to it. I wanted to do my Custodes in NMM (Non metallic metal) but also wanted something I could replicate across a whole army without losing the will to live. After many hours of watching people wet blend / glaze etc I came up with this. It’s not the most realistic gold but I think it looks good and most importantly doesn’t take too long. People have described it as “cell shaded” which I like. The process is the same for vehicles or infantry, I just use an airbrush on the vehicles (but exactly the same colours and steps). The steps are quite repetitive and it looks a mess almost right until the end so keep persevering with it Golds I hope this tutorial is an interesting read and you’ve found it useful. I try to make it simple to follow but also detailed. If anyone tries this out, I would love to see the results and I would find it useful to hear how you found following the tutorial.

Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html Now we’re going to create a glaze by mixing 70% of Lahmian Medium with 30% of Hashut Copper. Now don’t wash this all over, instead target the areas you specifically want to shade. This quite a subtle step, repeat this step two or three times to increase the intensity of the shading (multiple thin layers will get darker and darker the more you apply).

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http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. Wash the gold with Gloss Reikland Fleshshade. Necro Gold is a somewhat greenish gold, and the red tones in the fleshshade warm up the colors while retaining the darker tone. Highlight the previous stage further with a thinner line of Russ Grey. Base coat the Lightning Bolts on the shoulder pad and shield with Russ Grey. Military Shader:This is a drab green wash. Compared to GW Althonian Camoshade, it’s less yellowish. I like it quite much, I think it’s great for shading drab or muted greens when you don’t want that yellowish hue of Althonian Camoshade. Optional) Paint the armor with Satin Varnish to give it a nice sheen (pure gloss varnish is too shiny)!

Spot Highlight the armor (gold and leadbelcher parts) with Stormhost Silver (try to ‘dot’ the edges of the armor only – less is more)! The important thing to remember when edge highlighting, is you want the paint to be thinned so it flows easily from the brush but not so much that it will run everywhere. Finally base the model in a way that fits with your gaming table or existing collection. I used Dark Reaper for the base edge and highlighted the sand with Ushabti Bone. Some scorched static grass glued on finishes the model off. If, like OP says, they want the majority to be dark bronze with lighter accents I'd suggest reading this tutorial and missing out the verdigris part (unless you want to keep it, it does look awesome).

We use DHL for our main courier. The delivery guide for this is next working day to 2 working days. The longer period is for areas such as the Highlands and Islands of the UK. However, I've heard lots of good things about Scale75's paints, and have been told they are sufficiently different from other paint brands to be worth trying out. Unfortunately my first experience with them was far from ideal, as I bought the Fluorescent set (as it was a niche not filled by any existing paint I had) and absolutely hated them! It was only after this that I learned that they were notorious even amongst ardent S75 fans for being a bit crap and not representative of the line as a whole. Highlight the edges of the blue areas with Lothern Blue. I glazed on a thin highlight onto the shoulders and shield as well. Although their numbers were greatly reduced during the Battle of the Webway during the Horus Heresy, the Legio Custodes now once again numbers ten thousand warriors, each dedicated to the protection of Terra. Since the return of Roboute Guilliman and his ascension to the role of Imperial Regent, they have lifted their self-imposed Edict of Restraint and once again begun crusading across the Imperium to bring swift death to the foes of mankind. They played a pivotal role in Guilliman’s battle against Magnus and the Thousand Sons on Luna, and in the defense of the Imperial palace. Such is their might that the Administratum has never recorded a single loss for the a battle that the Custodes have participated in. Eye lenses – paint the full lens in Kantor Blue, then leaving an edge of blue, paint Blue Horror inside.

Codex: Adeptus Custodes is full of insight into the Emperor’s glorious bananas, highlighting their nature, organization and secret wars, but if you want to read more, here are a few books we’d suggest that dive into greater detail on the Custodes. Basecoat all the blue areas with Macragge Blue. Thin this with Lahmian Medium to produce a smoother result. I noticed The Army Painter seemed to have changed their silver paints. In the early days of the Warpaints range, the formula used to be almost identical to the silver paints from the old Citadel paint range (Mithril Silver, Chainmail, Boltgun Metal). Super-fine pigments, smooth application, almost perfect coverage. Their “new” current generation of metallic paints are by no means bad, but I feel that their old versions were superior. They are also no match to Citadel’s more expensive white cap metallics or metallic paints like Scale75 Alchemy, Vallejo Metal Color, or Two Thin Coats metallics. Where to get Warpaints

Make up a mix 1:1 Baharroth:White and thin it right down to a glaze. I used Vallejo mediums for this, but Lahmian Medium would work just fine. You want it pretty transparent. Softly highlight the middle of the blade in a band across it. If the blade is really long you might want to do one wide band like this and then one thinner one either side. Use strokes running along the angle away from the tip, this helps it look sharp