Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Basilicanum Grey (18ml)

Product Information

In our How to Paint Everything series, we look at how to paint well, everything. In this article we’re shifting focus away from the little warriors that populate our battlefields and toward the terrain they fight on. Today we’re looking at how to paint Sector Imperialis/Manufactorum ruins from Games Workshop. For the underside I was pretty lazy – people are simply not going to see it in the course of a normal game, so it just needs to be good enough that any glance that is caught of it doesn’t look out of place. Here that comprised: Here I used Contrast: Space Wolves Grey& Contrast: Skeleton Horde on the bone and weapons tips. I’ll let you work out what went where. You could have waited to do the agrax wash on the cloth until after the metals and such are done to save a bit of time here.

As we’ve noted in other articles on basing and painting, there’s often more than one way to approach these things, and beaches come in all varieties, from sandy paradise-style beaches lined by palm trees: Shade the lighter silver areas by painting Basilicanum Grey directly into the recesses. You might need to clean this up with Vallejo Mecha Color Steel [ Iron Hands Steel] afterwards. Drybrushing. I take a large drybrush and put a tiny dot of Mephiston Red into a lot of Reaper Polished Bone (any light bone shade will do) to give it a sliiiiight pink tint, then I drybrush that over the model, using more near the tops. This is the last step, and basically finishes the whole thing. By the end a single building could be done in an hour, maybe less. I then washed around the nose, lip and cheeks with an equal parts mix of flesh tearers red, fyreslayer flesh and contrast medium. As I neglected to take step by step photos along the way, here are the methods/recipes I used to paint the Hobgrots alongside a couple of screenshots!

Skin Tones

From what I can tell, he appears to have used something similar (my suggestions) to the following process: For my The Army Painter Speedpaint review, I painted Contrast, Speedpaints, Instant Colors from Scale 75, and Antithesis paints from Warcolours on a sheet of plasticard that I primed with Corax White primer. I photographed the sheet under 5500K neutral light to reproduce the colours as authentically as possible. Highlight both the shoulder guard and the aquila’s skull with Pallid Wych Flesh. I didn’t highlight the wings at this point because the “feathers” are so small that the single white highlight we’ll apply in step 20 will be enough. Highlight the eye lenses with Warpaints Lava Orange [or Troll Slayer Orange], then add a small dot of white to the corners of the lenses.

Sponge Chipping:Create weathering by dabbing a torn piece of foam in dark grey, like Eshin Grey or Skavenblight Dinge and/or a dark brown, such as Rhinox Hide, then dabbing this against the model. Last but not least I’m adding rust to the metal bits. This is a two-step process: Start by adding a stippled layer of Typhus Corrosion. Typhus Corrosion is a great paint for adding texture to things and dries with a gritty texture that’s great for drybrushing over. It’s wonderful for making metal look aged, and after I’ve applied a layer of it, I’ll drybrush parts of it with Ryza Rust to create a rusted metal look. If I wanted to go even harder on the worn-down look, I’d consider adding Nihilakh Oxide to the copper pipes and potentially the gold banding as well.Highlight the yellow areas with a brighter yellow, such as Flashgitz Yellow. You can accentuate this further with an edge highlight of Dorn Yellow. To give a bit of implication of different skin tones and states of decay on the zombies you can basically raid your washes for whatever will even vaguely tint the primer a bit. (note that thinning denser contrasts works quite well for this too)

Highlight the leather in an irregular, scratchy way with Scorched Brown, an old, discontinued paint [you can also mix a little bit of Screaming Skull or Ushabti Bone in Rhinox Hide]. Lastly, there isn’t much yellow, but you’ll find a bit on the collar as well as the pompoms. I kept this nice and saturated, as it’s such a small detail that it should be called out. I went all over the yellow on the pompom with the wash, but didn’t really use it on the collar. You could use it to define the color barrier between red and yellow but it’ll be kind of hard to see. You could also use it for sergent or corporal stripes on the uniforms. Let’s proceed with some more tests and see how Speedpaints apply on a metallic basecoat. I sprayed an Intercessor with Plate Mail Metal from the Warpaints Air range, though you could also use Plate Mail Metal Colour Primer or Leadbelcher Spray. Paint the wood and any straps with Citadel Contrast Wyldwood and any ropes/bandages/feathers with Citadel Wraithbone.Also these guides using colours from a single paint range using that ranges techniques, base coat upwards etc only speak for those invested in that paint range. For the taxi, airbrush with a basic flat yellow, such as Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow (my favorite) or Phalanx Yellow (meh). Deserts aren’t the place to find sand. What if you want your minis to be storming beaches, coming out of the water? What if you want to do sand effects, but don’t want an army on drab, plain desert bases (though the monotony of desert bases is also kind of the point, really)? In today’s How to Paint Everything we’re talking about how to capture that look and fell on your models’ bases. Reference Material Also if you’re feeling particularly nostalgic, Bob Ross used to paint a ton of seascapes and you can catch re-runs of the Joy of Painting on Twitch these days, usually streaming on Fridays. A lot of the same color principles and tactics Bob uses can be applied to how you paint water, plus the show is just very relaxing to watch. Wash the sign (both the lettering and the red) with diluted (1:1 parts water to paint) Basilicanum Grey.