Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Celestra Grey

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So for the final highlight I’m using the new Corax White which is likewise phenomenal as a layer paint over Celestra. It works really well as a base, but I still think Celestra has it beat. However its a thousand times better than White Scar or Ceramite White which for my money are not very good paints at all. Normally I’d go with Ulthuan Grey but again its a very sharp jump in brightness and I found the softer hue of Corax White just looks better on the more subtle gradient of Celestra and Grey Seer. So for doing the shading I hand blended a 50/50 of Russ Grey on the prow of the bike and on the big node just ahead of the bikes exhaust. Other than that I used Nighthaunt Gloom to ring the minor nodes/spirit stones and run between the wing vanes and the hull of the bike. This is a very simple process and I blasted right through it. For those interested the seat is painted Dark Reaper with a Thunderhawk and Fenris Grey for highlights. Warpstone Glow is a bright, almost fluorescent green that you can use to highlight other green paint layers. I along with others have used this to create glowing effects, e.g., object source lighting (OSL), by adding more and more white paint. Metallics Leadbelcher I've got a project which calls for a light drybrush of Grey Seer. While I know most any light grey paint would work, I thought it would be worth it to ask and see if anyone has an opinion on which Citadel, Game Color or Model Color paint would be the best match, as Google searches seem to only give recommendations on spray cans. Thanks.

In this week’s Goonhammer Historicals we take a look at how to paint some of the most iconic uniforms of the Napoleonic Wars. Now the bone details. I paint bone, including the talons, beak, and claws with Rakarth Flesh as the base coat. for the beak and the horns I want those to blend into the flesh, so I do a blend of Rakarth Flesh and Snow Shadow near the base of the horns to blend them. Usually this only requires two passes, one at 2:1 Show shadow/Rakarth and another at 1:2 since they’re both off-white. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Washing the Horns and Gold Trim Painting historical miniatures is one of the ways I take a break from really pushing myself with painting techniques. I realised at the start of the year that having projects I could just kind of coast through would help keep my motivation up, and so I dove in to historical miniatures. I decided I’d make heavy use of Contrast when painting anything for historical systems, and had great success bashing out two entire platoons at 15mm in an evening using this method. I base the whole thing in Mechanicus Standard Grey, then wash it unevenly with Agrax Earthshade. From there i heavily drybrush on Dawnstone and then lightly with Terminatus Stone.

Next comes the highlights. The upper body is highlighted with mixes of The Fang and Reaper’s Snow Shadow to create lighter shades. The general process I’m using for this is basecoat -> shade -> highlight with the original basecoat -> highlight with lighter shades. The legs will be highlighted with Xereus Purple, without a lot of extra work done on top of that, though if you want to do some extra highlights you can use Daemonette Hide for that. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones The Armor Here’s where things go from colorful to technicolor, with the sashes, epaulettes, pompoms, shako cords, buttons, and more. For the buttons, just use the brass technique from the equipment section. On the particular models I painted, I found edge highlights to be better looking than drybrushing for the pompom and epaulettes, but your mileage may vary. For the sash on the sword, the pompom, epaulettes, and shako cord, I used the same green technique. So when GW introduced its new line of paints, it was the white paint I was most excited about as I had just begun kitbashing my enormous unit of Shining Spears. My first hope was that the new Grey Seer paint, would paint on like a true Base type paint over the new Grey Seer Primer. So unfortunately I found that out of the pot Grey Seer is more like a layer paint and it seems slightly off from the actual primer. That may have been a unique experience on my part, but it was noticeable enough that it kept me in the comfort zone that is Celestra Grey.

Once I’ve finished the legs off I drybrush the bottom areas with a light dusting of Celestra Grey. This blends Abaddon into the base and gives him a much more weathered appearance. I hope I’ve helped simplify your search for the ideal paints you may want in your collection. I’ve focused on the Citadel brand as it is arguably the most popular and accessible to most people. Of course, I missed a ton of favorites. But, I think you’ll find the paints I listed are the most versatile across a large spectrum of miniature painting needs. Hey guys Cavalier here, commission painter for Frontline Gaming and co-host of Splintermind the Dark Eldar podcast here today with a painting tutorial on how to paint white models! So if you like the look of this Lion of Chrace I’ll show you how I did it. Next comes the Armor Plating. I paint the armor plates with Sotek Green, then wash those plates with Drakenhof Nightshade. At this step I also paint the metal bits with Leadbelcher. I’ll wash the weapons with Nuln Oil but the scale mail tabard I want to be brighter and look more like part of the armor, so I instead of using Nuln Oil I wash it with a Guilliman Blue gloss. They don’t make this anymore, but you can likely replicate the effect by mixing Macragge Blue or the deep blue Contrast Paint with a lot of Lahmian Medium or water. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones The Belt is done with Mephiston Red and shaded with Carroburg Crimson and Nuln Oil, and highlighted in spots with Evil Sunz Scarlet.I primed all the models Grey Seer no problem and layed down Celestra Grey with my airbrush as the base and I am very happy with how it came out. The two colors are very similar so if you dont get total coverage it hides very well. I don’t want to buy a pot of Grey Seer just to do a little bit of drybrushing, but I do have other Citadel grey paints. Would any of those be an acceptable equivalent of Grey Seer? In total, there are over 340 “paint mediums” that you can buy from the Citadel product line. And, I’m sure there many more forthcoming. They comes in all types and colors. Each behaves differently and may be formulated for a different purpose. Remember to always start your project with a suitable primer.

I decided to paint the British Napoleonic Highlander Centre Companies box from Victrix for this HTPE, tartan and all. Some might call that foolish, and they would be right.

The Concrete Jungle

Here’s an interesting point I learned the hard way. The more paints you use, the more you’ll realize how few paints are necessary. As Oliver Wendell Holmes, a US Supreme Court Justice once said, “For thesimplicitythat lies thisside of complexity, I would notgive a fig, but for thesimplicitythat lies on the otherside of complexity, I wouldgivemy life.” In other words, your understanding of simplicity only comes after fully experiencing complexity.

Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, You can wash the dried surface with shades, such as Agrax Earthshade to darken the texture, too. Contrast is king, so play with different techniques to make your surfaces appear crisp. All kinds of variation are possible here but be mindful how your mini goes on the base in the end. I often do the basing last and and do it around the mini. While this approach is slower because you have to carefully spread the paste around the models feet you can more easily create the “scene” around it.Reikland Fleshshade is best applied as a wash over painted skin and flesh tones. You’ll want to experiment with this shade to find the right application for your work. Overall, this shade has a reddish-brown tone that you may find helps to add contrast to other elements, too, like gold metallics or as a rust effect over other metallic surfaces. I have mixed Reikland Fleshshade with brown paint to help me paint earthy colored bases. It’s a wonderfully rich shade that you can use for many different things on your models. Suffice it to say, Reikland Fleshshade is great for painting flesh, but you’ll discover many more uses for this paint wash. Seraphim Sepia