SHIMANO Special grease for pawl-type Freehub bodies 50 g,White

Product Information

Normal grease is NLGI #2, you want NLGI #0. Maybe #1, but definitely not normal #2 (wheel bearing greases, marine grease etc).

Hydraulic mineral oil - this is for disc brakes, and is different from DOT fluid. Anecdotally people use mineral oil including baby oil, and it 'works'. But Shimano claim that only theirs is good and others can destroy your brakes. https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-implications-for-road-disc-updated/ Take this with a pinch of salt as there are bunch of hydraulic mineral oils sold specifically for bicycles and no complaints. Different hydraulic mineral oils do have different boiling points, and different viscosity. Shimano freehubs can be serviced to an extent, but when they’re worn out, you’ll officially need a whole new freehub as they’re not designed to be disassembled, even if it is technically possible. Freehubs from Campagnolo and other brands are easier to service.As a bike wrench in the time when freewheels and freehubs both existed, I saw too much oil/grease more often than not enough. the axle tightens from one end. Here is no internal spacer between left and right side bearings to support the inner races

I've done many of those hubs with the common Finish Line teflon grease on the ratchet rings, and the same brand Wet lube under the pawls. I was thinking of trying Belray Waterproof grease because of its Washout and other properties (it is excellent on bearings) You can also use Shimano-standard cassettes with 8, 9 or 10 speeds, but will need to fit a 1.85mm spacer on the inboard side of the cassette to fit, plus an additional 1mm spacer for 10-speed cassettes. QUOTE 4136088, member: 45"]Have you taken it off the hub? There are bearings on the inner side and if you're only dealing with the outer ones then this might be why you're getting recurrent problems.[/QUOTE] BTW in the procedure I outlined in the post above, after having used the thing for a couple of weeks with oil in , you service the hub bearings like you were going to do anyway. So you can have grease in the main bearings, and a different lube in the freehub if you want. With most shimano and shimano clone freehubs, whatever lube is in the RH hub bearing ends up in the freehub body, provided it is fluid enough.

Campagnolo®

Grease threads of end cap. Thread end cap onto axle. NOTE: End cap is a left hand thread. Secure end cap to 300 inch-pounds. Fundamentally what you are doing is lubing the rollers within the chain. The exterior of the chain could be totally free of any lube and work perfectly if the rollers themselves were lubed. It is somewhat impossible to achieve this with conventional chain lube but the point is there is no point to having any extra lube on the outside of the chain. It only attracts dirt and grit which add friction and promote wear, so the least amount possible is the goal. For brake fittings, since you mentioned it, there are even products that don’t react negatively with the fluid or hose material or bladder/seal material within caliper or lever; SRAM offers a DOT grease to be used with its DOT-fluid based braking systems on the coupling nut. There are some applications where you should only use the approved grease and using the wrong grease really will cause a problem. This includes roller brake grease. This is critical to use the exact grease specified, and unsafe to substitute anything else. When you have the two ratchets together and facing each other, coat the teeth around the outer with grease and slide them onto the Thread Ring sitting on the axle. Then slide the freehub body onto the axle, replace then end cap and there you go: one serviced freehub.